Cannoli Siciliani

fried shells, sheep's milk ricotta, dark chocolate

Prep
1h
Cook
30 min
Rest
12h
Total
1h 30m
Serves
12
Difficulty
Hard
Rating
4.7 / 5 (189 ratings)

The shells need wine and lard in the dough, which is what makes them blister and crisp when they hit the oil. The filling needs real ricotta, ideally sheep's milk, drained overnight in the fridge. The most common mistake is filling them too far in advance. Once filled, they go soft within a couple of hours.

Ingredients

For 12 servings.

Shells (makes 12-14)

  • 250 g 00 flour
  • 30 g lard (or cold butter)
  • 30 g caster sugar
  • 60 ml dry Marsala or white wine
  • 1 pc egg
  • 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
  • 5 g unsweetened cocoa powder
  • a pinch cinnamon
  • a pinch salt
  • enough to deep fry sunflower oil for deep frying

Filling

  • 600 g sheep's milk ricotta (cow's milk ricotta works but is less flavourful; drain overnight regardless)
  • 120 g icing sugar
  • 80 g dark chocolate chips (70%)
  • 40 g candied orange peel, finely diced (optional)
  • 0.5 tsp vanilla extract

To finish

  • to taste icing sugar to dust
  • to taste crushed pistachios (optional, for the ends)

Method

  1. 1. Drain the ricotta (night before)

    Line a sieve with a double layer of muslin or a clean cloth. Spoon in the ricotta and set over a bowl. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours, overnight is better. The ricotta should lose a significant amount of liquid. A wet filling makes soft shells.

    This step is not optional. Undrained ricotta will make the shells soft within minutes of filling.

  2. 2. Make the dough

    Rub the lard into the flour until it resembles breadcrumbs. Add the sugar, cocoa, cinnamon and salt. Make a well, add the egg, vinegar and Marsala, and bring together into a smooth, firm dough. Knead for 5 minutes until it feels like soft leather. Wrap and rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.

  3. 3. Roll and wrap

    Roll the dough out very thin, about 2mm. Cut into circles about 12-13cm. Wrap each circle around a metal cannoli tube (slightly overlapping), sealing the join with a dab of egg white or water. Press the join firmly.

    Keep the unused dough covered so it doesn't dry out.

  4. 4. Fry the shells

    Heat the oil to 180°C / 350°F. Fry the shells (on the tubes) in batches, 2-3 minutes until golden and blistered. Drain on kitchen paper. Slide the shells off the tubes while still warm. If you leave them to cool on the tubes they'll be impossible to remove.

    Use tongs to handle the tubes. They get very hot.

  5. 5. Make the filling

    Beat the drained ricotta with a spoon until smooth. Sift in the icing sugar and mix well. Fold in the chocolate chips, candied peel and vanilla. Taste for sweetness.

  6. 6. Fill and finish

    Fill the shells using a piping bag or a spoon, working from both ends toward the middle. Dust with icing sugar. Press a few pistachios or extra chocolate chips into the exposed filling at the ends. Serve immediately or within 1-2 hours.

    Don't fill them more than 2 hours before serving. After that the shells start absorbing moisture from the filling and go soft.

Nutrition per serving

  • 295 kcal
  • Protein: 8g
  • Carbs: 30g
  • Fat: 16g

A bit of history

Cannoli are Sicilian and historically tied to Carnival, the period before Lent when fried foods and sweet things were eaten before the fast. The shells and filling have both probably been around in some form since the Arab domination of Sicily in the 9th and 10th centuries, which introduced sugar cane, citrus and almonds to the island.

The name means 'little tube' or 'little pipe'. By the 20th century they had spread from Sicily to Italian-American communities in New York and elsewhere, where they became one of the most recognisable Italian pastries outside Italy, often made on a larger scale and with cow's milk ricotta.